Eleanor Whitfield
Why wool and linen ask for a gentler touch
Wool is a protein fibre, chemically close to your own hair, which is why it reacts badly to hot water, rough agitation and alkaline detergents. Biological washing powders are the worst offenders: their enzymes digest protein, and a wool blanket is, in effect, one large protein. Linen sits at the opposite end of things — a cellulose fibre from the flax plant that grows stronger when wet and softer with every careful wash. What it cannot tolerate is rough handling, high heat or being left creased in a damp heap.
Get the basics right and both fibres will outlast most of the trend-led textiles in your home. The rules are simple: cool water, mild detergent, minimal agitation, and drying that respects the shape of the fabric.
Washing a wool blanket without ruining it
Check the care label first, but most pure wool blankets can be washed at 30°C on a wool or delicate cycle with a spin speed of 400–600 rpm. If your machine has no wool programme, wash by hand.
- Use a pH-neutral wool detergent. Never use biological powder, bleach or oxygen-based stain removers.
- Skip fabric conditioner. It coats the fibres, flattens the loft and leaves a waxy feel.
- Treat stains by dabbing cool water and a little wool detergent from the outside in. Blot, don't rub.
- For hand washing, use a bath of cool water, press the blanket gently beneath the surface, then rinse in water of the same temperature. Sudden temperature changes cause felting.
- Never wring or twist. Let the water drain, then lift the blanket with both arms — wet wool is heavy and will stretch if lifted by one corner.
Wash wool no more than once or twice a year. Between washes, airing does most of the work.
Airing, drying and reviving wool
Wool is naturally odour-resistant, so a day on the line in dry, breezy weather freshens a blanket remarkably well. Choose an overcast day rather than blazing sunshine, which fades dyed fibres, and lay the blanket flat across two lines or over a drying rack rather than hanging it from one edge.
After washing, dry it flat on a clean towel, reshaping it to its original dimensions while damp and turning it once so both faces get air. Keep it away from radiators and direct sun; heat makes wool contract and feel harsh. If the surface has pilled, use a fine-toothed fabric comb rather than a razor, which cuts into the yarn.
Washing linen curtains
Linen curtains collect cooking vapours, dust and pollen. Before washing, vacuum them on a low setting with a brush attachment, or shake them outside — this keeps the wash water cleaner.
Most unlined linen curtains can be machine washed at 30–40°C on a gentle cycle, but always check the label. Lined and interlined curtains are often better dry cleaned, because the lining and face fabric may shrink at different rates.
- Wash two panels at a time in a large drum; an unbalanced load thumps and creases the fabric.
- Use a mild, non-biological detergent and a low spin, around 600 rpm.
- Expect shrinkage of roughly 2–4 per cent. Good curtain makers allow for this in the header, but wash long curtains before hemming if you can.
- Never bleach linen unless the label says it is safe. Chlorine weakens cellulose over time.
Drying and hanging linen well
The easiest way to avoid ironing linen curtains is to hang them while still damp. Reattach them to the track or pole and let them drop; the weight of the fabric pulls out most creases within a day. Gravity is a wonderful housekeeper.
If you do iron, press linen damp, on the wrong side, with a hot iron and plenty of steam, working along the length rather than scrubbing back and forth. Linen creases are part of its character — a softly rumpled curtain looks far better than one flattened into stiffness.
Storing both fibres properly
Store only what is genuinely clean. Moths are drawn to wool carrying traces of food, sweat or skin, so a blanket put away unwashed is an invitation, and linen can develop mildew if stored with any lingering dampness.
- Fold blankets with acid-free tissue paper between layers, and avoid plastic bags or vacuum-sealed storage, which trap moisture.
- Use a breathable cotton bag or a clean pillowcase instead.
- Tuck in cedar blocks or dried lavender — kinder to a room than mothballs.
- Refold blankets and curtains once or twice a year so permanent creases don't set along the same lines.
- Keep stored textiles out of lofts and damp cupboards. A dry, dark, airy space is ideal.
Roll curtains around a cardboard tube for seasonal storage; it prevents sharp folds along the heading and keeps them hanging beautifully when they go back up.
